Friday, August 30, 2013

The Masai in Tanzania

The Masai are very visible in Tanzania.  They are cattle owners much like the Fulas in The Gambia. But unlike the Fulas, the Masai actually do herd the cattle rather than allow them to be free range.  The Masai also really do wear the brightly colored Masai blankets that you have probably seen in pictures of Africa. As we drove through the countryside you could see them taking their herds of cattle to the water holes, wearing their blankets and holding a long pole used in herding. One day we passed some young men who had recently gone through the manhood rites and stopped for a photo op. The young men are taken away by the elders and are taught the ways of men and are also circumcised. If the young man shows pain or cries out during the circumcision, it brings shame upon his family.  This is also true of the manhood rites in The Gambia. However for the Masai, the newly initiated young men must wear black robes and white face paint for 3 months after they finish their manhood rites. It is an interesting difference when their clothing is usually so colorful.




The second park we went to, Nogorongoro Crater is national conservancy.  No one can hunt the animals but herding is allowed on the within the park.  So in addition to all of the wild animals there were also herds of cattle.  We paid an entrance fee to go into a Masai village and it was an eye opening experience.  First they met us wearing all of their finery and sang and danced. You can see from the background of the pictures that the country is rather harsh. Since they are herders they are plagued by flies.  If you look at the little girl hanging onto her mother in picture,  you can see all of the flies that are crawling on her.


The women create elaborate items from bead work the results of which you can see in the pictures.




The women are also the ones who build the homes.  The next 2 pictures are of a woman hard at work on her new home.  She created a framework of sticks and then is covering it with mud and cow dung.  (probably part of the reason for all the flies)




The picture below is a view from the outside view showing the Masai women hanging around with homes in the background.  They are sitting the way that I have seen women sitting in The Gambia -- with their legs straight out and their bodies at right angles to their legs.  I could do that for about 3 seconds before I would quit and yet they are quite comfortable.



As part of our visit an English speaking Masai man took us into his home.  He is taller than I am but  the houses are all built less than an adult's height so I had to stoop.  He described the home as having 3 rooms and a main area.  One room  was for sticks, one room was for the children to sleep and the other area was for him and his wife to sleep. The main area was for cooking and congregating and had the only window, a round hole about the size of a softball.


 This is the view of the window.  


His sleeping area


The chidren's sleeping area


The kitchen.  The window is distorted in the picture, it is much smaller than that.


Here is another outside view of houses to show what the entrance looks like.  I had to stoop to go in and the entrance was full of flies.



After showing us his house he brought us to his family's part of the "market" which had things for sale that his wife had created. I felt embarrassed because I had left my money in the car so I could not buy anything.



The last stop on our trip was a visit to the school.  The children were peeking out the door awaiting our arrival but when they saw us coming they dashed to their seats and sang a welcoming song.  I don't thing school is actually in session in August, but they were requesting donations for their school.  As you can see from the pictures they definitely need the money. There is plastic sheeting in the ceiling but unfortunately as you can see there is also a big hole in the ceiling. Older children actually go to government boarding school at the government expense.  


What was written on the blackboard. Going to school in Africa makes American classrooms look like palaces.



It is interesting to see how they live.  Most of their net worth is on the hoof and the homes are relatively temporary.  As you can see not much is required to pull up stakes and move if the water holes dry up. Water is a precious resource. There are no wells or cisterns in their village, so washing clothes and bathing is done in the same water holes their cattle use. I often wonder about the accident of birth gives some so much and others so little. Hopefully I will come home with a real appreciation of all that I have.



Friday, August 16, 2013

Amazing vacation

I have wanted to go on a safari for years and years and finally did.  I was afraid that it would not live up to my expectations but it exceeded them. Tanzania is a beautiful country and we saw so many animals. I should have known it would be good when our driver/guide introduced himself as Good Luck, which is his actual name.  It was just the two of us (a woman from the UN and myself)  and Good Luck in our car so we could run back and forth to see everything without disturbing anyone else.  The safari vehicles are good for that  You are not allowed to get out of the car so the whole top of the car lifts up and you can stand and take pictures to your heart's content.



Wildebeasts and zebras were among the first animals that we saw.  We had missed the migration but we had not missed the wildebeasts.


Our first lion encounter turned out to be the most memorable.  I just happened to turn on the video and captured something unexpected.





Apparently during the mating season the lions get up every 15 to 20 minutes to procreate.  I did not capture the female rolling around on her back after their very brief interlude.  The guide told us that the king of beasts is not the king in all areas and the lioness has to roll over on her back to ensure that the sperm gets where it needs to.

We saw many, many elephants and I have some nice elephant pictures but I thought I would post this one to show how close we got to them.  Good luck said that the elephants have really bad vision and that is probably the explanation for this lady's behavior.  She walked right next to the vehicle rather than crossing in front of it.  I was looking down on her when I took this picture.  If I had been sitting rather than standing in the vehicle and rolled the window down I could have touched her.



We saw many baboons and they always came in a parade.  The monkeys and the baboons amazed me with their human like hands.  They could pick up the tiniest things -- just like humans though I think a tad more wild.


The Serengeti was so beautiful especially in the early morning light. The acacia trees are so graceful.

Wart hogs were Good Luck's favorite animal.  He had an "I Love Warthogs" sticker on the window. I have to admit that they were kind of cute in their own ugly way but were very skittish.  I opened the curtains in my hotel room and was face to face with a wart hog.  However by the time I grabbed my camera for a closeup he was dashing away.


Hippos lead the good life.  They have no predators so can be as lazy as they want.  They have no natural way to cool off so during the day they lounge in pools of water, throwing mud on their back with their tails and make grunting noises.  At night when the temperature drops they get out of the pools. Hippos kill more people than any other beast in Africa.  Here you can see just a few of them during the daytime.



We were fortunate in our leopard sightings.  I was having serious camera envy with the leopards since I only had my little digital camera and saw plenty of people with giant lenses on the SLR type cameras. Good Luck said that he normally saw leopards on one out of 5 safaris.  We thought we had seen fiveleopards on our trip but when I put my pictures on my computer, I realized we had actually seen seven. Three of them were in one sitting.  None of the 3 of us realized it while we were watching.  We just focused on the one on the lower branch and never saw the two above it. This is the best picture my little camera could get.

I will end the animals as I began with the king of beasts. They were usually slinking around or sleeping in the brush.  But sometimes we saw them on giant monoliths that are scattered around the Serengeti so no brush to obscure the view of them.  Here was a sleepy guy hanging around on the top of a rock.


         Here is another guy hanging around on top and under a rock.

Saw many more animals, all of the "Big 5", and it was truly amazing.  If any of you are thinking about it, save those pennies, it is worth it.

The craziest part of the entire trip was on the way out.  We left Zanzibar late due to "operational reasons".  We did not make the next flight because they overbooked the plane and there was only one seat left.  Then the next flight was late due to "operational reasons".  We were not too nervous because we were leaving later in the day for our next flight.  However one of the ground crew told us that the "operational reasons" were that the airport was on fire in Nairobi.  Since we were supposed to be flying to that airport in the evening we were a little concerned.  Two days and many dollars later we made an evening flight that was the first flight on which they allowed passengers with connecting flights to go to Nairobi. We had almost paid for tickets with Ethiopian airlines to go home through Ethiopia two days later but luckily they were not able to confirm us yet so no money changed hands. Once we arrived in Nairobi it was crazy.  All of the things they normally did for international arrivals and departures were all done in big tents.  It was the first night for through flights so things were pretty chaotic.  Everyone was trying to get to 5 agents using laptops to get boarding passes and let us say that it was not done with orderly queues.  Elbows were necessary. I also ended up paying $20.00 for a transit visa I did not need because they did not tell me to exit through the side of the tent.  But we did got out on the first flight to Dakar the next morning and made it home only 2 days late. I have been held up on flights for a lot of reasons, but the airport burning down is a new one and I certainly hope it remains a unique event for me.

Below is picture of just a third of the tent.   The heater is because it was cold but I was not complaining knowing I was going back to The Gambia.
 View of some of the tents from the airplane as we were leaving.